SOMONI
AND KORZHENEVSKAYA PEAKS
Season: July 20 - September 1
The route is headed by:
Description:
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Ismoil Somoni Peak (Peak Communism); elevation 7,495 m. Located at the crossing point of the Academy of Sciences and Peter the First Ridges. Full deciphering of this mountain knot - "Garmo knot" - was finished in 1932. It was then that the peak elevation was identified as 7,495 m.: previously, it had been considered Garmo Peak. The first climb took place in 1933 and the peak was given the name of Stalin. Later the Peak was renamed and had been known as Peak Communism till the August of 1999. Now it has the name of Ismoil Somoni.
There exist several routes leading to the top: all tried at different times and of different complexity categories - from 5 A to 6 B. The most popular are: Borodkin route from the north (from Valter Glacier; done on August 17, 1968; category 5 A) and the one from the west along "Burevestnik" rib (from Fortambek Glacier; done on August 20, 1968, category 5 A). In the north, a base camp is situated on Moskvin Meadow between the glaciers Valter and Moskvin at the elevation of 4,300 meters. From here you can climb Korzhenevskaya Peak (7,105), and also peaks of The Four (6,300), Pierre d'Kubertain (5,700), and Vorobyov (5,200).
Base camps are reached by helicopters from Dushanbe. To get better adapted, we suggest you should take a hiking tour from the village of Dipshar to Moskvin Meadow. The trip takes 5-6 days. It will give you enough time to get adapted to mountain conditions and enjoy the beauty of Pamirs.
In the west, the base camp is located at Suloev Meadow near Fortambek Glacier at the elevation of 3,900 meters. You can also take a walking tour while a helicopter will take the cargo to the base. The peculiarity of climbing Ismoil Somoni Peak is that you practically walk along the whole Pamirs Firn Plato.
Route schedule:
Tracking and climbing program is designed for a specific group upon reception the information on the clients and considering their wishes. Timeframe is from 5 to 10 days.
Project Coordinator Yevgeny Lorenz
Tel: (99372) 37 91 76
Å-mail: sarihosor@tajik-gateway.org
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